After hiking Tiger Leaping Gorge, we were sore. Our knees were creaking. Our shoulders resented the weight we’d carried. I slipped a couple times on the descent and my hip was bruised. Maybe it was crazy to go straight to another mountain?
But we’d advance-booked a driver (through the help of Bruce at the Bruce Chalet) to take us to Thousand Turtle Mountain. This is the site of a fairly new national park. It doesn’t seem to be nearly as famous, but it sure is cool. I’m glad that we went and would recommend it to anyone who is already in the gorge area. In fact, the park map indicates wildlife reserves and many miles of hiking–probably enough for a few days’ activities.
From the parking lot, we took a steep cable car to the summit. It’s surely the longest cable car I’ve ever ridden. In fact, it was actually two cable cars–you had to get off the first and transfer to another, because it was so high and steep.
And then you find yourself atop an incredible landscape. The sandstone has been weathered away by rainfall, producing bizarre patterns. The locals decided it looks like turtles, clambering over one another in a race to be the Top Turtle of All. A lot of tourists think it looks like brains. No matter what you see, it’s amazing.
As if the turtle-brain landscape wasn’t impressive enough, there’s also the fact that you are standing on a thin peak, some 10,000 feet in the air. If you lean over the chain fence in the picture above, here’s what you see:
Do you see that valley in the middle of the photograph? That’s where we started out, before the cable cars. It’s a long, loooooong way down.
It’s hard to say what was more bizarre: the mountain formations jutting straight up, reminiscent of Devil’s Tower in North America, or the weird, turtle-y patterns on the rocks under our feet.
The gray, misty sky certainly added to the other-worldly feel of the place. We were so high that we were looking down onto clouds, as if we were on floating islands. It’s easy to see why so many movies–from “Avatar” to anime–draw their inspiration from Chinese landscapes.
Then it was time to take the long cable car ride back down. It was raining now and the view (of nothing below my feet) was enough that I had to close my eyes for a bit to not hyperventilate.
Once we were down, we joined up with our driver and ate lunch at a local restaurant. Not enough foreign tourists to necessitate English menus, so we walked over to the refrigerated case and pointed to foods we wanted them to cook. It was all delicious, though I think the cook made it a bit bland (non-spicy) for us.
When we stepped out of the restaurant, blue skies surprised us. The weather in Yunnan is known to be fickle. “You can stand in the rain and see the sun shine,” they say. I thought the mountains were just as beautiful, misty or sunny.
Then it was back in the car for the three-hour drive to our next destination, Shaxi. Along the way, we made on quick stop at the first bend of the Yangtze River. Basically, the river makes a “Mankato bend” here in Yunnan. If not for this nearly 180-degree bend, the largest river in Asia would flow south right into Myanmar (Burma) and China’s history would be drastically different.
May 1 is Labour Day in China. Much like Memorial Day in the U.S. symbolizes the start of summer, this long weekend is a prime vacation and travel time across the country. We decided to make a family trip to Beijing.
My #1 reason to go to Beijing was for a chance to hike on the Great Wall. I booked a tour with a lovely outfit called Dandelion Tours. (aka China Hiking–why do so many Chinese businesses have multiple names?) We met the tour leader in Beijing at 9:30 and headed out of town. About a dozen people had turned out for the tour, and I was pleased to see that there were three other kids. Because of the holiday, we hit lots of traffic and the two-hour drive to the Wall turned into three hours. Our first stop was a little farmhouse/guesthouse, where the owners had prepared a fabulous meal for us. There were no less than a dozen dishes and several things I hadn’t tasted before. One of my favorites was a radish salad; another great salad was actually made by using the flowers of local trees and dousing them in vinegar and spices.
After stuffing ourselves, it was time for a hike! About 30 minutes’ walk from the farmhouse, we caught our first glimpses of the wall. After a steep climb, we were up on top. This section of the wall is known as Gubeikou, as that is the name of a nearby town. The first version of this wall was built during the Northern Qi Dynasty (ca. 550 AD). It was reinforced with more stone, more towers, and more passes in the early Ming Dynasty (ca. 1368). The Gubeikou Wall has stood ever since, although it’s certainly in disrepair now. In the parlance of Wall enthusiasts, it is “wild wall,” as opposed to other sections that have been restored for tourism. Closer to Beijing, you can find sections of the Great Wall that have been rebuilt. This rebuilding may feature historically accurate blocks or more economical concrete slabs, as well as souvenir shops, chair lifts, and giant slides. None of that here–just wall. Miles and miles of wall. And despite the holiday, we only bumped into a handful of others trekking the same area.
The weather was perfectly broody–misty gray skies were the product of natural fog intermingled with Beijing smog. The temperature was refreshingly cool and I felt like I could walk for hours. But about a quarter of the way through our hike, our guide’s walkie talkie crackled with news from camp: there was a huge weather system moving through and we were destined to get caught up in it. Rain, high winds, thunder and lightning. I was surprised at the news. I’m used to being able to look up into the sky and see storm clouds. But that’s not really possible in China, where the thick haze blocks your view of the clouds brewing further overhead. We picked up our pace. It was too bad, really: between the high winds and the uneven footing, plus this newfound sense of urgency, I spent most of my time looking at my feet rather than at the stunning scenery all around me.
As we pressed on, the winds got stronger. Soon, we started hearing the rumble of thunder in the distance. Then the storm was on on top of us. What do you do when caught in a thunderstorm while atop the Great Wall of China? Where do you take shelter? There’s no path below the wall. There’s no shelter on the wall. There are occasional guard towers every 150 meters or so, but would one of those sustain a lightning strike or crumble down on our heads? We gathered into one such tower for a discussion. After some debate, the group decided to press onwards. We hiked the last kilometer in a rainstorm with lightning flashing above us. We could see our destination long before we reached it, a tantalizing promise of shelter. The rest of the guide team had set up our tents for us on the slope below the Wall.
It was a great relief to duck inside a tent but still not much protection from the lightning. We decided to dash back to the farmhouse where we started (as the trail is a loop). Dinner was served there, with the same abundance and variety as lunch. The storm eventually passed and our team made our way back to the campsite after dark. Our guides provided some beer and wine, and we socialized into the night, as tired individuals slowly drifted away for a well-earned sleep.
Morning came early for the youngest member of the expedition. Simon woke up at about 5:30 in a cranky mood, intent on vocally expressing his discontent to all. Not wanting to be bad tent neighbors, Joel and I hastily packed a bag and, quite literally, headed for the hills. It was a beautiful morning. The storm had blown away all the smog and we were welcomed by the bluest sky we’d seen in at least a month. As we climbed the hills and onto the Wall, we could look back and see the campsite, a tiny enclave among the undulating hills.
Simon was having none of it. I’d hoped to make up for the lack of photography during yesterday’s storm but my prime subject was just not in the mood for smiles.
We finally decided to turn back and hung out at the farmhouse, waiting for our fellow campers to wake up and join us for breakfast. After gorging on yet another fantastic meal, we all walked into the town of Gubeikou, where the van was waiting to return us to Beijing.
Hiking on the Great Wall was perhaps the one activity I most eagerly anticipated once we decided to travel to China. This was a fantastic trip. The scenery, the architecture, and the food were so impressive that even a few hiccups couldn’t detract from the experience. I only wish we’d had longer, and now I’m pondering the practicality of another hike before we leave…