Tag Archives: Georgetown

Indian Food in Penang

There are three major cuisines here in Penang: Malay, Chinese, and Indian. In addition, there are two of what I consider “fusion” cuisines: Nyonya (Chinese +Malay) and Mamak (Indian + Malay). Of all these, Indian is the definite favorite in the Carlin household. Interestingly, two of the three Indian restaurants we frequent are vegetarian.  But I guess we could claim to be regulars at all of these places.  The servers recognize us and some even remember our kids’ names.


Woodlands is my absolute favorite restaurant in Penang. It’s in Little India and happens to be air conditioned, although that’s not the only reason we find ourselves here on a weekly basis!  It’s not a large place; with only about 15 tables, it is frequently full at popular meal times.  And the shop employs a small army.  On my last visit, I counted no less than nine men in their high-collared brown uniforms, serving tables and hanging out at the cash register.  That doesn’t even include the cooks in the back.  For the patron-to-waiter ratio, service can be a little slow and the staff can be just a little stand-offish.  Oh, but the food.  

I like to go in the evenings, when they are serving all their wonderful bread-like products.  

Ghee onion rava masala dosai at the Woodlands. This reminds me of when we fry up leftover mashed potatoes in a skillet. It’s one of my favorite items at Woodlands.
Chenna batura, anotehr big poofy hollow bread, with a stew for dipping.
Paper dosai at Woodlands Vegetarian Restaurant. You break off pieces of this crispy, thin rolled bread and dip them in the sauces.
Some flavor of vadai from Woodlands. I’ve seen vadai called “Indian donuts” but they really have nothing in common with a donut beyond the shape. I think they could be better described as lentil fritters, as they are made with a batter of ground lentils and deep-fried.


We also frequent another vegetarian restaurant in Little India called Thali NR Sweets.  NR is really THREE! restaurants in one.  The regular food service is the thali featured in their name.  A thali is a plate of small dishes, and a popular Indian lunchtime meal.  You get some rice or some sort of bread product (chapathi, naan) in the center of your tray and little bowls of flavorful dishes around the edges.  Some are more of a curry soup, some are vegetable mixes.  There’s also sometimes a bowl with a yogurt drink and if you’re lucky, one of the bowls has a sweet Indian candy inside.
About that Indian candy… That’s where the “Sweets” part of their name is featured.  When you walk into the restaurant, you have to walk by these big display cases of sweets.  They are wildly, unnaturally colorful and very, very sweet.  And delicious, of course.  Typical ingredients include milk, ghee, coconut, and ground nut pastes (a bit like marzipan, actually).  I find it impossible to resist buying some little thing to try at the end of my meal.

Curiously, Thali NR Sweets leases a bit of space to another food endeavor, Vishnu’s Pizza.  That’s right.  It’s a pizza shop in an Indian restaurant.  I was curious, the first time we ordered.  Would they use a piece of naan in place of the regular pizza dough?  Would the topping be paneer (Indian cottage cheese) instead of mozzarella?  Nah.  It’s just a regular, American-style pizza.  But it’s pretty good and Simon really likes it.  And the guy who works at the Vishnu Pizza stall is really friendly, too.

Thali NR Sweets Cafe.
The Madras thali platter. This whole meal costs about US $2. Isn’t that incredible?!!
Indian sweets. The pink ones on the left are cranberry flavored. The pink ones on the right are coconut. The little apples are made from cashew paste, with a clove for the stem and a pistachio for the leaf.

The final Indian restaurant in our regular rotation is Indian Palace, which scores big points for proximity.  It’s on the first floor of Penang Times Square, the building where we live.  It is not a vegetarian place, so this is where we go for chicken tandoori, lamb, fish, etc.  By comparison, the portions sizes are a bit small and the prices a bit high (for Malaysia) but the food is always very delicious and the convenience of being just steps from our apartment is a dream to tandoori-deprived Minnesotans like us.  We pretty much always start with an order of either chicken tandoori or chicken tikka, and then we are slowly working our way through the menu of other dishes.  It’s quite an extensive menu.  Some of the dishes– spicy chicken vindaloo, creamy mutton korma–are familiar to us from Indian restaurants in America.  But we also enjoy trying new things. On one occasion, Joel ordered a fish plate, in which the cubes of fish were rolled in green herbs and spice, and it was unlike any Indian dish I’ve eaten before.

Indian Palace in Penang Times Square.
Indian Palace in Penang Times Square.
Indian Palace in Penang Times Square.
Interior of Indian Palace.

Neighborhood Snacks

People in Penang rarely stop talking about food.  It’s on everyone’s mind, all the time.  And there are just so many places to buy food!  One of the benefits of living in Georgetown is that there is a lot of food in close proximity.  There’s the fact that we live in a mall–so all of the restaurants and the food court are available without even going outside.  But if you step outside the confines of Penang Times Square, and wander up and down our street, Jalan Dato Keramat, there are a couple of special snacks within short walking distance.  I’m going to talk about sweet treats and desserts because who are we kidding?  That’s what I live for.

But first.  Have I ranted about sidewalks lately?  Can I rant some more?  The people who run this food stall set up at about 2:00 every afternoon.  They erect their tent and tie it down across the entire sidewalk, so that you have to sort of shimmy through their stall, taking care not to clothesline yourself on their tie-downs or burn yourself on their hot plates.  Or you can just walk in the street against oncoming traffic.  I was so taken aback by this when we first arrived.  During my early walks to the Gama grocery store I was in pure survival mode, trying to navigate the traffic and the poor sidewalks, and so I never actually stopped to wonder what this obstacle was, just that it was an obstacle.

Pretty much taking the whole sidewalk, aren’t you?

This guy opts to walk into the traffic. The key is to walk confidently and believe the cars will swerve for you.
Eventually my curiosity got the better of me.  One day I asked what she was serving.  She lifted the lid to show peculiar white noodles.  I still had no idea, but said I’d take one.  It was only later, through a Google search, that I learned that this stall is actually quite famous around Georgetown.  They sell just one thing: A Tamil treat called putu mayam, otherwise known as “string hoppers.” Putu mayam is made by steaming rice noodles (they look a lot like vermicelli) and then sprinkling grated coconut, finely crushed peanuts, and palm sugar over the top.  As I said, it’s the only thing they serve, and a single serving (actually enough for Joel, Simon, and I to share) is 2 ringgit–about 50 US cents.

Each layer of the steamer baskets is filled with rice noodles. The small bowls at the bottom hold the toppings.

I think putu mayam was originally served in pandan leaves, but newspaper is now used.

When you open up the little parcel, you get a stack of rice noodles with sweet condiments on top.
The noodles are essentially flavorless, so they are really just a medium for the toppings. And while I see people buying from this stall all the time, it’s always take-away, so I have no idea how you are meant to eat this. With fingers? A spoon? I use a fork to stir it all up and then eat it that way.

If you successfully navigate the traffic past this stall, you’ll end up at Gama.  This is a Chinese-managed supermarket and department store at the infamous “Magazine Circus” intersection, where five major roads intersect.  It’s just a few blocks from our apartment, so we shop there for everyday groceries. If you take the elevator all the way up to the sixth floor of Gama, there’s a small food court.  The best option is kaya toast.  Kaya butter is coconut jam.  Doesn’t that just sound heavenly?  Kaya toast is a classic Malaysian snack, simply a sandwich with kaya butter in the middle, often eaten at coffee houses for breakfast.  But I find it makes a good snack to refuel after grocery shopping!

Jalan Dato Keramat, the road we walk to get to Gama, after you’ve passed the putu ayam stall.

Kaya toast and a glass of lemon-sour plum juice. The tartness balances the sweet kaya butter.
Across the street from Gama is one of many Mamak restaurants in the area.  Mamaks are Muslim Indians who have a particular cuisine of their own, different from Hindu Indians.  (For starters, Beef: yes. Pork: no.)  My favorite option at these restaurants is roti.  Now, roti just translates to bread.  But in these restaurants, it refers to a big, soft flatbread. The most common use of roti is roti canai, where a piece of this flatbread is served with curries for dipping.  But it can be served  in all manner of savory dishes (eggs! sardines!) or sweet dishes (banana! condensed milk!). It was here at the restaurant at Magazine Circus that I first tried roti tisu.  The roti is rolled out extra-thin, fried and served crispy, rolled into a cone.  And while I suppose you could eat it with any condiments, it’s best when drizzled with sweetened condensed milk.

Roti tisu and a cup of teh tarik.
Down the street, on the other side of our apartment, is a little shop called Joez Coconut. It can hardly be called a restaurant; it’s really just a little food stall and there’s not much of a place to sit.

Joez Coconut.
Once again, it’s a shop that special lives in just one type of food, so you can bet it’s going to be good.  They sell coconut treats and their specialty is coconut jelly.  I don’t know what their magical technique is, but you can buy a whole coconut, open up the lid, and the coconut water inside has been turned into jelly.  It’s like eating coconut-flavored Jello, but it’s lighter than Jello and just melts in your mouth.  On a hot day, it’s a refreshing treat for under RM5.  Cold and smooth and jiggly.  Yum.

The original Joez Coconut.

After you eat the jelly, you can scrape out the white coconut flesh too.

A Sleepy Stroll Through the Christian Cemetery

Penelope doesn’t like to sleep during the day and the best bet for calming her down is to walk, walk, walk.  This is a child of the tropics; the hotter it is, the better.  So we’ve developed a new weekday routine where I slide her into the baby carrier and go exploring Georgetown on foot.  She falls asleep as long as we keep walking and while we both end up sweaty, it’s the best way for me to maintain my sanity when the two of us are alone.

The other day, I decided to visit the historic Christian cemetery.  There are two sections, one half Protestant and the other half Catholic.  The earliest burials date to the 18th century and the last burial was in 1892.  The site has suffered from neglect over the years and many tombstones are toppled, cracked, and illegible.  Perhaps the most extensive damage occurred during WWII, when Japanese bombs obliterated both the north and south ends of the Protestant Cemetery.

Empty space at the ends of the cemetery, which were damaged by Japanese bombs.

It’s actually a beautiful place for a stroll.  Tucked into a city with so little green space, it feels like a park.  
Plumeria trees arch over the main pathway to create a shady arbor​ and muffle the noise of the nearby traffic.
I saw more species of birds here than anywhere else in Georgetown.  A bright blue kingfisher perched in a tree and watched me for quite some time.  Several mynas perched on gravestones and followed behind me.  It was dramatically cooler inside than out on the street, but the recent rains had contributed to the number of mosquitoes inside.  

Lovely place for a stroll.
Many graves have been damaged by time.

Anyone who knows me knows that I am interested in historic names and naming trends, so I’m always on the lookout for interesting and unusual names.

Fenella. I actually know a little Fenella, but I’ve never seen the name in a cemetry before.
Madiekulla.
  

Some of the names were a little harder to read.
Old tombstones that had been separated from their graves were embedded in the wall between the Protestant and Catholic cemeteries.
Reading old tombstones can remind us of the hardships of life in previous centuries. Of the legible stones, the majority were under the age of 50. Quite a few were young men in the 20s, and there were many children and babies as well.
Especially hard to read while carrying my own baby daughter.
Causes of death were occasionally listed, and I saw several shipwrecks and drownings. Perhaps the most unusual was the Jackson family: Lt. Col. Gregory Jackson (55), wife Matilda (59), and son Gregory (21). 

“Both Parents expired on the Morning of 

The 1st April 1855, and their Son 

The previous afternoon from jungle fever. 

One of the notable graves belongs to Thomas Leonowens, a British civil servant.  Poor Leonowens is best known for his death, for he was the husband who died and widowed Anna Leonowens, the governess of “The King and I” fame.


As I strolled along, I came upon a worksite. A tarp was installed above one particular tomb and tools were strewn about.  Nobody was around, but clearly work had been going on recently.  I assume that the site was being used by preservationists, who were perhaps trying to restore the inscription on this gravesite.  Or perhaps it’s the site of some very fastidious tomb raiders!  In a show of sheer practicality, the tarp was tied down on the edges of other tombstones.  A box of sterile gloves was perched on the arm of a nearby cross.  I guess if you spend enough time in cemeteries, you probably stop thinking of them in such sacred terms.  Simon’s babysitter, Thiva, tells me that the cemetery is a popular place for Chinese couples to have their wedding photos taken.  I’m not a particularly superstitious person, but I was surprised to hear that.  

Happy Birthday, Brandy!

Wednesday, which was the exact middle of Brandy’s Malaysian adventure, was also her birthday.  She and I spent the day together and wow, it was a whirlwind.  We (Brandy, Penelope, and I) started off with breakfast at a swanky coffee shop that looks every part of a hipster shop in the U.S.  It’s called Macallum Connoisseurs and I only happened to know about it from happening past it while Ubering around town.  It ticks off all the boxes for the hipster coffee shop: and old converted warehouse space with high ceilings and an industrial feel; the interior is painted all black with industrial accents; a coffee menu with source notes and tasting profiles.  We ordered breakfast, and it was nice to have a big, western-style breakfast.  I also ordered one of the most expensive drinks on the menu, the chai latte, with freshly grated spices.  It was good–in the U.S. I’d say it was excellent–but with our proximity to Little India, my chai tea standards have raised dramatically.

 

Macallum Connoisseurs
 
From breakfast, erm, brunch/lunch… With the lovely A/C, we lingered a bit…we sent shopping.  We visited Sam’s Batik, which is supposed to be one of the best (and certainly biggest) local shops to buy batiks, silks, and other lovely clothing.  We ended up selecting a few Indian embroidered tops for ourselves and as souvenirs for Brandy’s family.  The staff were quite attentive…it’s quite common for salespeople to hover over customers here in Penang, which can be off-putting to us Americans who are used to shopping in peace and anonymity.  But the staff here were actually quite helpful.  They offered us bottled water and tea.  When it came time for me to try on some shirts, a female staff member was flagged over to be a baby holder for the duration.  Later, when it was time for Penelope to nurse, they set us up in a nice, private dressing room.  

After we left Sam’s, it was time for Part 2 of our batiking adventure.  A few of the Gusties have been taking batik lessons at a local shop called Rozana’s.  She’s a really lovely lady who offers walk-in classes at a very reasonable price.  We met the students, Lily and Annika, as well as Joel, for a hands-on batik lesson.  Each of us selected or drew an image, which we then traced onto a framed cloth.  Then Rozana helped us apply hot wax to the traced outline.  After the wax set, we used dyes–essentially very dilute water colors–to paint the fabric.  I think I mentioned this in my last blog post, but Gusties really are a talented, artistic group of people!  It was a lot of fun and I definitely got the hang of the technique about halfway through my piece.  I’m quite tempted to go back and give it another go, as I understand the coloring process much better now.

 

First you draw your design.
   
Next, Rozana helped us trace over the design with a hot wax pen.
 
  
After the wax is set, you can fill in each segment with paint.
  
So talented.
  
You can use water to blur and blend the colors.

 
My design, start and finish.
  

  

Strangely, Rozana offers another service in her shop: a fish spa.  Basically, you dip your feet in an aquarium full of fish that like to nibble on dead skin cells, but won’t bite living flesh.  Yes, it’s weird, but it’s quite popular in Asian tourist destinations.  Rozana treated Brandy to a free fish spa session because it was her birthday and I joined her.  The sensation was somewhere in between a tickle and a pinch.  To be perfectly honest, I found it really uncomfortable.  It wasn’t painful, just…weird.  

   

Fish eating my feet.
   
Everyone in our party had a go in the foot spa.  And being a good sport, Joel even wore the accompanying flip-flop clogs.

   
 
Whew, you’d think that was enough, but our day wasn’t over yet!  We still wanted to go out to dinner.  It was Brandy’s choice, and of course, she chose Korean food.  Once again, our restaurant choice was guided by a former Uber driver.  (Sometimes I make polite small talk with Uber drivers.  Other times, I drill them for good restaurant suggestions–and I take notes on my phone!)  While driving through Tanjung Tokong one time, I mentioned to the driver that there seemed to be a lot of Korean restaurants in the area.  He agreed and started to rattle off some of his favorites.  And so it was that we made it to KO B.B.Q.  It is, as the name implies, a Korean barbecue.  We just handed the menu to Brandy and let her coordinate the dishes.  We ended up ordering a lot of food, and worrying about having too much.  But when the food’s that good–well, we ate it all.  We walked out stuffed, but very happy.

 

Each table feature a vacuum with a long copper hose to suck up smoke from the. barbecue. They retracted towards the ceiling and Simon thought the hoses were really cool.
  
   
We were really exhausted by this point, but as we headed home, I managed to pick up a tiny little birthday cake from one of the shops on the ground floor of our mall.  The shopkeeper even included candles; too bad I forgot we don’t have any matches!  So we sang the birthday song and Simon helped Brandy blow out the imaginary flames.  It was a long, full day.  Happy Birthday, Brandy!

Pretend candles.

Aunt Brandy Visits Penang

Right after Penelope was born, we had a very special visitor.  Months ago, our dear friend Brandy decided to visit us during the Gustavus spring break.  This would be her first transoceanic trip, and she was going to travel all the way from St. Peter, Minnesota, to Penang, Malaysia.  She’d arrive 16 days after the baby’s due date, and we were all confident that baby would be out of the hospital and the Carlin family would be adapting to its new routine by then.

Ha!  Little did we know how persistent this new little person would be.  I was still in the hospital when Brandy boarded her first flight from Minneapolis to Tokyo.  Fortunately (?), it takes a while to travel halfway around the world and our family was all settled into our apartment by the time she actually landed in Penang.  In fact, Penelope’s very first outing in this world was a cab ride to the airport to meet Brandy.

Because the baby was so very new, we had to moderate the amount of touristy stuff that we got to do with Brandy.  We compensated with lots of baby snuggles.  I think it was a fair trade.

      

  
Her first weekend in Penang happened to coincide with Easter.  I suppose it might seem strange to travel all the way to Malaysia to celebrate an American-style Easter, but that’s what we did! The USM buddies, coordinated through staff member Jumie, organized an Easter celebration at the Interational Office.  All the Gusties and many USM buddies met up that afternoon to dye Easter eggs.  And wow, we have a creative bunch. I was too busy holding a baby to get to decorate any eggs, but I loved seeing the students’ creations.

  
   
    

 But Brandy wasn’t even our only guest! Another Gustavus colleague was also in Penang for the week.  Mike has already been selected to lead the Gustavus Semester in Malaysia program in 2018.  So he was in town to meet with program faculty, visit the USM campus, and get a feel for Penang.  This was a bit of a special visit for us.  Mike taught at United International College in Zhuhai, China, several years before we went there.  I remember meeting with him and his wife at River Rock way back in 2012 as they described life in China to us.  Now, the roles were reversed and we were able to tell him about life in Malaysia.  I felt like I was repaying a favor, in a way.  

And Mike got to hold a baby, of course.
 The next day, Joel played tour guide in historic Georgetown.  

 

Khoo Kongsi, a Chinese clan house.
  
Joel and Mike on the steps of Khoo Kongsi.
  
The walls inside featured the large depictions of ancestors riding a variety of real and imagined ccreatures.
  
I’m not Chinese but if I were, I’d totally claim the guy on the qilin as my great-great-grandfather.
 

 

In 1910, Sun Yat Sen relocated his underground revolutionary society to Penang. The house where they held meetings in now a museum.
  
Sun Yat Sen